Yohji Yamamoto
Spring/Summer 1991
Yohji Yamamoto Collections
2014
Yamamoto & Yohji
Published by Rizzoli
In search of new volumes for the body. Lines swerve under the effect of braided additions and twisted compositions. Polka-dot dresses mingle with Erte, given dynamism by trainers. The imposing flamboyance of coloured bead “scarves” dramatises the black.
東京デザイナーズ事典’91：’91春夏コレクションより
The Tokyo Collections Spring-Summer ’91
February 1991
High Fashion No.202
Photography by Shin Shin, Shinji Mitsuno, Hiroyuki Tachibana (B.P.B.), and Osamu Yokonami (B.P.B.)
今までの厳密なカッティング追求の姿勢から、布地の特性を生かした軽い仕立てへ。黒いボディスーツに重ねた白いタブリエドレスやレースのドレス、シンプルなスリップドレス、結んで着る白いトリミングドレスなどの素材は、ほとんどが木綿。布地をたくし込んで束ねた立体的なドレスは全く新しいフォルム。今回は数十本も重ねたネックレスも登場した。
From the strict pursuit of cutting until to now, he has shifted to light tailoring that makes the most of the characteristics of fabrics. Most of the fabrics used for white tablier dresses, lace dresses, simple slip dresses, and white trimmed dresses worn over black bodysuits and tied together are cotton. The three-dimensional dresses, which are made of fabrics tucked and bound together, take on a completely new form. Dozens of layered necklaces also made an appearance this time.
東京・パリ・ミラノ・ニューヨーク：’91春夏コレクションのすべて
Tokyo, Paris, Milan, New York, All of the ’91 Spring/Summer Collections: Ladies’
1991
Fashion Yearbook Vol.7
Published by Magazine House Mook
Written by Hisako Sunohara
カッティングを追求する、今までの構築的な服とは逆のラインを破壊するデザイナー。
In pursuit of cutting, the designer destroys lines that are the reverse of the structured clothing of the past.
構築することに飽きたかのように、ループでつないだ服やタブリエを、黒いボディスーツに重ねて登場させたのが印象的。今までの形を追求していた姿勢とは逆の路線を示した。ドレスと同素材の装飾、ビーズのネックレスなどの使い方に目を見張るものが。
As if tired of structuring, he introduced clothes and tabliers connected by loops and layered over black bodysuits. It showed the reverse line from his previous attitude of pursuing form. The use of decorations made of the same material as the dresses, beaded necklaces, etc., was remarkable.
柔らかなドレスの、ボリュームたっぷりの装飾に、会場から拍手が。
ボディスーツに重ねたレースは、ストラップでつないだ形のない服。
紙細工のような立体的なドレス。これもボディタイツに重ねて。
The audience applauded the soft dress's voluminous embellishment.
Lace layered over the bodysuit is a shapeless garment connected by straps.
A three-dimensional dress that looks like paperwork. This was also layered over body tights.
みせかけの重ね着にアンバランスの打ち合わせ。とぎすまされた美しさ。
白とベージュの上品な組み合わせは、異素材超ミニなどでくずして。
今シーズンのテクニックを皮革ひもでドレスに。絶品
An unbalanced combination of pretense layering. The beauty of the dress is refined.
The elegant combination of white and beige is broken up with a supermini made of a different material.
This season's technique is used with leather straps as a dress. Exquisite!
プレーンな服に、透明のビーズをぎっしりと。キュロットの丈は長め。
細いストラップのロングベストの重ね着。上品なグレーの濃淡で。
レースの美しさを最大にアピールするかのようなシンプルなドレス。
Plain clothes are filled with transparent beads. Culottes are long.
Long vest layers with thin straps. In an elegant shade of gray.
A simple dress that seems to maximize the beauty of the lace.
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